Precious metals in jewelry manufacturing and their best use – Precious tips / art5

Author: Vasco Kirov

There are many articles on precious metals on the web and some of them are quiet professional with a lot of details and data. I will try not to give you just another one. Here I will offer you a simple version and avoiding extensive technicality add my professional opinion on the best use of these metals in order to utilize their unique properties.

In this article we will focus on the most popular precious metals used for jewelry: gold, platinum and the fast growing in popularity palladium. Pure gold and platinum are soft metals which are extremely dense. pure gold is about two and half times heavier than iron and pure platinum is just under three times. While really bright in color pure metals are not suitable for fine jewelry because of their softness. Soft metals are easy to damage, difficult to polish, and unsuitable for detailed work. This is why they are mixed (alloyed) with other metals, in order to give them the desired properties. This is also where all this “carats” and confusing numbers come into play. In fact it is pretty simple. All pure metals in nature are white or gray in color except two, gold – bright yellow and copper- reddish pink. Now we go back to precious metals. All different colors of precious metals are achieved by mixing these colored metals with white ones.

Carat is a confusing name for purity or fineness of precious metals. It is confusing because the same word is used as a weight measurement for precious stones. That carat is equal to 0.2gr. and have nothing to do with metal fineness. To differentiate the one carat from the other, in some standards, weight carat is marked with ct and purity karat with kt or k. We can accept this rule to avoid confusion in further articles, therefore when we address metal purity we will use “karat”. Karat is used mainly to define purity of gold alloys. Different countries have different standards for gold purity and the most used globally alloys are: 9kt or 375, 10kt or 416, 14kt or 585, 18kt or 750, 21kt or 875 and 22 or 916. The alternative number which alone can be used as hallmark indicates the number of fine gold parts in the alloy out of 1000. The easy way to translate this into a manageable information is to perceive it as the percentage of fine gold used x10. For example 750 means 75% pure gold content or 18kt.

Platinum is used in almost pure form and 95% hallmarked 950 is a standard alloy. All alloys with pure platinum content of 95.0% or higher can be also marked with the full word “platinum” or “”plat.” Other used alloys are 900 (90%), 800 (80%) and 585(58.5) also called karat platinum. The amazing qualities of this amazing metal are better described in another article where I am comparing it with the white gold alternative.

Palladium 950 alloys are as white as the platinum, blending well with white diamonds and eliminating the need of rhodium plating. Palladium is a light metal with weight close to the one of sterling silver and much lighter than platinum and high carat gold alloys, thus making it the metal of choice for items like large earrings. At the time of writing, the price of 950 palladium alloys is about a third of the price of the 18k white gold offering great possibilities for large solid pieces at significantly reduced price. One disadvantage though is that quality casting of palladium requires materials and equipment, currently not viable for small workshops

The hallmarks you will usually find on your precious metal jewelry are:

1). Karat or fineness stamp (e.g. 18kt/ct or 750)

2) Manufacturer’s stamp

The karat stamp does not have much value without the manufacturers stamp because the declaration of purity is not signed. Beware; in most countries you can buy a karat stamp for few dollars.

Variety in gold colors and mechanical properties is achieved by alloying fine gold with one or more other metals. White gold for example is a gold alloy with whitening metals, usually palladium, nickel or silver or combination of them. Since the fine gold is always yellow, it is the alloy (base) metals that give the karat gold its color and properties. For example to be able to stamp an item as 18k it must content at least 75% of fine gold. The remaining 25 percent of alloy metals will determine its color and physical properties. If 8.4% of copper and 16.6% silver is used in the alloy, we will end up with the traditional rich 18k yellow gold color. If we mix the same amount of fine gold with 15 % of palladium and 10% of silver we will have good quality white gold. The constant content in 18k gold alloy is always 75% pure gold. Higher than 18k white gold alloys are not possible because the alloying metals are not in sufficient quantity to absorb the yellowness of the pure gold. 21k or 22k gold is always yellow, very yellow. The same principle applies for platinum and palladium, although these metals are used in much purer form (95% is a standard) and there is not detectible changes in color. The only changes there are in physical properties.

Now, with our newly acquired knowledge of precious metals we will probably arrive at the questions: What are the best alloys? What metal jewelry should I buy?

Different metals are good for different purposes. As a general rule (and if you can afford it) buy alloys with higher precious metal content. That applies mainly for gold, since platinum and palladium are used in almost pure form. 18kt gold or higher have distinctive gold color and real precious metal properties. My opinion is that alloys with less than 50% gold content (under 14k) should not be called gold, but gold brass or something else defining the inferior gold content. If you are looking for big bold and heavy pieces the best is to go for silver with gold accents or the very new precium (25%palladium and silver alloy developed by Handy & Hartman)which may be already on the market at the time you read this article. For your fine jewelry pieces choose 18k gold and platinum. 18k white gold can be used for heavier, thicker pieces while platinum is the best for delicate settings with a lot of detail. It does not make sense to set $10 000 diamond in white gold just to save $ 300-400 difference on platinum setting. Besides the aesthetical superiority, the security of platinum setting is immensely greater. When we come to earrings, especially large ones, choosing lighter alloys is essential. Palladium is the first choice followed by 14k white. For yellow, stick to 18k. You can never get the right color in lower karats. Then, your goldsmith’s ability to work light will come handy. Try to find the right craftsman. It is really making all the difference. The weight of the stud settings is rather small even in the case of large diamonds, thus making the platinum the obvious choice for white metal. The difference in price will be insignificant but the difference in strength and safety and quality - vast. Another advantage of the platinum studs – they could be made very delicate and retain their strength.

About the Author:

Vasco Kirov is an experienced designer and master goldsmith with vast knowledge in every aspect concerning fine jewelry. He have been awarded a number of prestigious design awards for excellence in diamond jewelry design. Currently he is still designing and manufacturing high end jewelry in his studio in Cape Town, South Africa. To access many useful articles on the jewelry topic visit http://www.jewelgateway.com

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Precious metals in jewelry manufacturing and their best use – Precious tips / art5

How Do I Make The Most Out Of Each And Every Training Session?

Author: Paul A. Walker

If you're reading this article then you have probably already begun your study of the martial arts and in all likelihood have progressed through the first few belts. You now understand what karate is about and you are fully familiar with your weekly training schedule. The question that you may still have though is "How do I make the most out of each and every training session?" The following are some suggestions to help you answer this question.



There are several things that you can do to maximize your overall training experience, all of them are easy to implement, and will help you take your karate to the next level. I have presented these tips in a simple cheat sheet that you can post on your bulletin board and look at before each training session.



So here they are:



1.Go to class regularly - When it's time for your next class, get up out of your chair and go straight to class. Do not pass go, do not collect $200, GO TO CLASS! Half the battle of karate is getting to class. Don't lose this battle, or you are doomed to failure from the start.



2.Always give your best - Don't ever accept anything less than your best effort. You are more than likely paying good money to attend your karate classes. Don't waste your money, and especially don't waste your time by being half-committed in your training.



3.Ask questions if you don't understand something - You are the customer, you are paying your instructor to provide you with quality karate. Don't be afraid to ask questions if you don't understand something. Any good instructor should be more than happy to answer your question, no matter how insignificant they may seem to others.



4.Set specific goals for your training and an appropriate timeframe in which to achieve them - Put this list of goals on your bulletin board (preferably next to this article!) and look at them every day or at least before every training session.



5.Write a diary of what you did in each class - OK, OK, I know this is a tough one, and yes I promised to keep it simple, but quite honestly if you do only this one thing I can personally guarantee that your karate will improve dramatically. There is nothing more valuable than keeping a written record of what you did each lesson to keep you on target and help you understand what you learned and where you need to improve.



6.Use your diary notes for your benefit - Oops there I go again, more work for you but hopefully you're listening by now. A diary is not much use unless you re-read what you wrote and then find out the answers to any questions you had from each lesson. Remember tip #3, it's OK to ask questions after the lesson too, or even before the next lesson.



7.Find a great training partner - There is nothing worse than going to class and then having to pair up with someone who doesn't want to be there. Avoid these people like the plague! Find a good partner who shares your same goals and values and make sure you both know that you will work together at every opportunity.



8.Attempt to understand the overall theme of each class - Most good instructors have an overall theme or objective that is carefully woven into each class. Through the content of each lesson many greater insights can be gained by understanding how each content item relates to the overall lesson, and by understanding the general context of each class. This integration of big picture concepts helps to take your karate training to the next level.



So hopefully this quick cheat sheet will help you to glean some extra benefit and insights from each lesson and if nothing else it should serve to better focus your efforts on effective training strategies.



For more information on improving your Karate, please read my FREE Report, "Achieving the Black Belt: How to Successfully Take Your Karate to the Next Level". You can download it at http://www.freekarateinformation.com.



Good luck and best wishes on your journey in karate.

About the Author:
Paul A. Walker, is a 4th degree black belt karate instructor with over 25 years experience in the martial arts. In 2003 he attained his 4th degree black belt, after studying with the legendary Karate Master, Hirokazu Kanazawa in Tokyo for three years. Get more info at http://www.freekarateinformation.com

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - How Do I Make The Most Out Of Each And Every Training Session?

Karate Yells - From Feeble Squeak To Fearsome Roar

Author: Yoshi Kundagawa

One of the first things I learned when I started taking karate (other than knuckle pushups) was the famous karate yell.



My white belt class spends a great deal of time bowing to the master, crouching in a "Karate Kid" style stance, and punching the air while grunting.



These alternating punches end with a "kee-yup" to transfer your power into an imaginary target. My karate yell has improved dramatically as has my overall fitness.



My throat was actually as sore as the rest of my body after my first training session. You know how it is. New class, excitement, adrenaline, and of course, the testosterone- fueled neeed to be competitive.



A scruffy looking teenager stands at the front of us. We call him "Master". He barks orders at us, and we grunt. And kick. And punch. And bow. I hate him. He is skinny. I am not. I am gasping for air.



After 9 or 10 karate classes now, I can actually do over 20 knucklepushups without stopping. When I started I could barely get 10. My punches have improved. For the first week or so I had terrible pain in my rotator cuff. One of the black belts who is a little older at our dojo took me aside after class and taught me a few strengthening exercises. I also bought a book online called Martial Arts After 40 at http://www.martialarts3000.com to learn some body-saving tricks.



Overall, my experience has been wonderful. I have sparred a little bit with karate pads and its a blast. But the best part is my body. I literally can see changes every few days. I'm eating cleaner, I've dropped weight, my bowel movements are way, way better and I have tons more energy!



Will I be breaking boards with my bare hands? Not this week but who knows?

About the Author:
Yoshi Kundagawa is a freelance journalist covering the martial arts world. Too much time at his computer eating donuts reduced him to couch potato status. He's on a quest to recapture his youth and fitness. You can read his blog at MartialArts3000.com

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - Karate Yells - From Feeble Squeak To Fearsome Roar

How to Understand Karate

Author: Jimmy Cox

Although practiced widely in Japan, the art of present day Karate was introduced into that country less than fifty years ago by Funakoshi Gichin.



Actually, the art of Karate can be traced back to the ancient Chinese art of Kempo. Legend has it that Kempo originated during the Liang dynasty when a Buddhist monk named Taishi taught this art to monks in the Shaolin-szu Monastery as a means of defense against militant aggressors and as a way of building up their weakened physical condition.



Taishi preached that for the true understanding of religion, the body and soul should be strong and inseparable, and that in a weakened physical state the necessary religious practices could never be adequately performed. In time, these monks became such powerful unarmed fighters that people from all over China came to study at their monastery in order to learn the art of unarmed defense.



Around 1600 A.D., the Chinese who occupied Okinawa introduced their art of Kempo to the Okinawans, who combined it with their native form of unarmed fighting, which in later years developed into Karate.



When Karate was finally introduced into Japan, it very quickly became popular and gained tremendous following and interest. In later years it was refined into what we know today as Japanese-style Karate.



The Karate Striking Techniques



The underlying principle behind the correct striking technique is that we must transmit the maximum concentration of force from the entire body, through the striking point, into the target area. Unlike the gun, knife or club, the striking point is the real weapon of the practiced Karate man. It cannot be bought in the store, but must be conditioned through practice and training.



Although an effective blow can be delivered without building up a callous on the striking point, it is nevertheless true that you can strike an even more effective blow, with less sensitivity to yourself, by conditioning the striking points.



The most commonly used striking point is the clenched fist. The clenched fist in Karate is not a simple closing of the hand, but a clenching of the fist so that the center point between the knuckles of the middle and forefingers lies on an imaginary line running through the center of the forearm. Also, the wrist is not bent, and if an imaginary plane ran through the front of the fist, it would be perpendicular to the arm. When using this striking point, the direction of the blow can either be forward, up or down.



When counter-attacking to the eyes or solar plexus, the tip of the first finger is an effective striking point. The direction of the blow can be forward or up or down, with a dig or even a stab.



Also effective in a counter-attack to the eyes is the use of the tips of the first and second fingers. Oftentimes this can be used to temporarily blind your opponent so that you can deliver an effective follow-up counter. Remember, the hand is faster than the eye? And a quick stab should momentarily make an opponent helpless.



There is much more to learn about karate, but this will set you off in the right direction.

About the Author:

Never Be Afraid Again - Learn How To Defend Yourself From Any Attack

Click here for FREE online ebook!

http://www.martialartsstyles.org/

Article Source: ArticlesBase.com - How to Understand Karate